Elena is a creative designer and writer passionate about visual storytelling and sustainable design.
When assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.
The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family utterly surprised.
“I am totally shocked,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their modest shop securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.
In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.
It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.
The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.
Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.
The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.
Elena is a creative designer and writer passionate about visual storytelling and sustainable design.